Capucine
Capucine is the recent editorial shot by Célia Cotelle that features clothes designed by Capucine Raoul. The goal was to focus on the handcrafted pieces and the technique of sewing, which Capucine describes “is too much overlooked in favor of ephemeral pieces because they are subject to trends.” The details are presented through close-ups on garments, showing the fabric and the cuts in an elegant way. The hands, the angle of the neck, the turn of the body add subtleness to the character of the outfits.
We speak with Célia Cotelle, an Art Director and Photographer, and Capucine Raoul, a Fashion and Clothes Designer, about their project. In the editorial Capucine, the team collaborated to create a joint universe based on elements from both their visions. The main emphasis was put on the specifics of the work together as creating a friendly atmosphere and processes, a space that is open for creativity with an intimate setting. We speak about the pieces chosen for the story, the experience of the photoshoot, and the emphasis put on the elements.
‘We are close, and our sensitivity is similar. I have always had an attraction, a certain eye, for the creations of those around me. I like to imagine visual stories with their works.’
— Célia Cotelle
Let’s start from the inception of the idea to collaborate with clothes designer Capucine. How did it come about?
Célia & Capucine: The idea of this collaboration came through the desire to bring together our respective passions and universes. We first discussed our creative processes: couture, on the one hand, artistic direction, and photography, on the other hand. Then Célia imagined a visual universe for this collaboration.
Célia:We are close, and our sensitivity is similar. I have always had an attraction, a certain eye, for the creations of those around me. I like to imagine visual stories with their works. It’s an intimate and friendly creative process in which confidence resonates and is felt in the photos. I had the feeling that with Capucine, we could create a series full of softness and subtlety.
‘This is to highlight the timeless artisanal aspect of sewing, which, in my opinion, is too much overlooked in favor of ephemeral pieces because they are subject to trends.’
— Capucine Raoul
What was the process of choosing the elements for the shoot and working on styling?
Célia & Capucine: We wanted to present these pieces through a series of close-ups to highlight the thoroughness and refinement of our trades.
Capucine: We wanted to choose handcrafted and elegant tailor-made pieces (jacket, pants, tailored outfit, research fabrics), where all the beauty lies in their construction and design. This is to highlight the timeless artisanal aspect of sewing, which, in my opinion, is too much overlooked in favor of ephemeral pieces because they are subject to trends.
Célia: The colors and fabrics that Capucine has chosen with care, as well as the shapes that she works on, bring a minimalist dimension to the pieces, which I like a lot. It’s a refined handcrafted work. D-day, Capucine came to my studio with around ten pieces. We chose four styles, sometimes associated with elements present in the studio. We wanted to take the time: a precious time for reflection to create a delicate story, rather than doing it in quantity. The centerpiece is this canvas wrap jacket that Capucine named Biblos in reference to the ancient city in Lebanon where the Phoenicians imported the papyri. I really liked the fact that the part was not yet finished and that you could see the cut and stitch marks.
The editorial is minimalistic in its aesthetics: the choice of colors, styling, and the focus on body parts - avoiding the presentation of the whole. Tell about this idea not to show the model fully, rather emphasize each time a different element.
Célia & Capucine: We wanted an intimate conversation between photography and clothing to submit it to the curious, almost intrusive eye of the viewer. This framing, very close to the material, allows us to expose various details of savoir-faire.
Célia: In the images, I like to get as close as possible to the details. I play a lot with close-ups and the deconstruction of the body or the object. The face is never revealed. It’s about drawing attention to other parts of the body or the object that are sometimes forgotten (a shoulder, a sleeve, a neck, a crease) and let the imagination operate. I look at the whole first, and then my eye focuses on a part to highlight. The aesthetic around this detail is discreet and enigmatic, a visual language that attempts to capture the mysterious side of the subject. I photograph with film that requires thoughtful shooting. I like the softness of the colors and the fineness of the grain. Once the image is revealed during development, I continue working with close-ups by cropping further into the image. The selected detail is then underlined as much as possible.
‘The universe revealed in these images touched me very much. I found it very fair and representative of the mix of our personalities.’
— Capucine Raoul
What was important in the choice of the model and the mood you wanted to create with this story?
Célia: We aspired to keep a very intimate setting, so we chose to take the photos in my studio only together. A calm place in which we feel good and confident. Soft and light waves that reveal themselves in history.
Which moment from this project is most precious to you?
Célia & Capucine: All this collaboration has been a very precious experience for us.
Capucine: Receiving the results of our encounter was a highlight because, with film photography, you never know what you are going to discover exactly. The universe revealed in these images touched me very much. I found it very fair and representative of the mix of our personalities.