Burdock, Psychology, D+V

Featuring Peter Ash Lee Words by Nastasia Khmelnitski

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Peter Ash Lee is a fashion photographer and director. Recently, together with his sister, Hannah Chloe Lee, Peter launched a platform and arts and culture publication, Burdock Media, in which he also took a role of editor in chief. Peter Ash Lee, originally from Seoul, was raised in Toronto, and currently is a New York-based creator. He worked with clients like Vogue, WSJ, H&M, Dior, and others.

Peter is sounding the voice and leading a change in Asian talents' representation both through his work and the publication. Diversity and opportunities to people of color are one of the main objectives he has set long before entering the profession. Delicate, elegant, refined, and sophisticated - each composition is well-thought-of, always inclusive to various types of beauty. From fashion to bizarre to cover shoots, Peter has a unique way to present different brands while remaining true to his art.

We discuss with Peter the main idea behind launching Burdock Media, his interest in psychology and people, signing with D+V, and the plans for the future as a book release and work on the gallery show.

‘I never saw anyone that looked like me in movies or on the covers of fashion magazines. I also didn’t see Asian photographers shooting for the magazines I looked at, which made me question if I could even make it as a photographer’

Hi Peter, thank you for this interview! Let’s start with the basics and some free flow. Tell about yourself and the start of your career.

I was born in Seoul, and my family immigrated to Toronto when I was 7 years old. I was studying psychology at the university but decided to move to NYC and pursue photography.

The theme of revealing the Asian-American is a prominent one in your work. How do you think it helps the community to build or reshape its perception in the fashion field?

Growing up in Canada and living in the US, I didn’t see myself represented in the media. I never saw anyone that looked like me in movies or on the covers of fashion magazines. I also didn’t see Asian photographers shooting for the magazines I looked at, which made me question if I could even make it as a photographer.

My vision is to see more diversity and representation in the world of fashion and mainstream media and to change and challenge the standard of beauty that currently exists. I want to continue to push for that change through my work.

I also want to encourage more young people of color to pursue arts, so we can continue the shift and see more representation both in front and behind the camera.

How is New York different in your opinion from Toronto or Seoul in terms of the physical city and the sphere of creatives you meet?

I think what’s unique about NYC is that most people I meet aren’t actually from NYC. Especially in the creative sphere, most of the people have moved here from somewhere else to pursue their creative dreams. And the hustle is very real. 

It’s challenging to move to a different city in a new country in which you don’t know a lot of people. What were the main challenges you have faced when deciding to move to NY and to launch your career?

It was definitely difficult moving to NYC when I didn’t know a single person here. But I do think there is an openness, and a lot of people are willing to meet with you if they can see that you’re passionate and creating interesting work.

You have launched a magazine Burdock Media in Brooklyn together with your sister Hannah Chloe Lee to give a platform to diversity and present the Asian American and start a new kind of conversation. First of all, how is it working with your sister? 

It’s been amazing working with my sister. She’s brilliant and so talented at all the things I’m terrible at, so it’s a really good balance. It’s also nice to spend so much time with a close friend.

What are some of the plans for 2020 for Burdock? Which themes would you like to focus on, and how would you like to see the change in inclusiveness by the end of the year?

We’re working on the second issue of Burdock, and the theme is ‘Sound’. I’m inspired by all the talented people we have in the next issue and am excited to share it with everyone.

As for inclusivity, we had brilliant films that got well-deserved recognition in 2019, including Parasite and The Farewell. We just need to keep the ball rolling and keep telling our stories.

You’ve studied psychology at The University of Western Ontario. Do you think the skills acquired during the studies help shoot individuals and tell their stories in visuals? In what way?

Studying psychology made me very curious about people, and all our similarities and differences. I think it’s that curiosity that continues to push me to try to explore new and interesting images of people.

‘Putting out the first issue of Burdock was rewarding—to finally see the results of a year of brainstorming and planning come to fruition’

What were your main achievements or milestones you’ve reached in 2019?

Putting out the first issue of Burdock was rewarding—to finally see the results of a year of brainstorming and planning come to fruition. I was also very happy to sign with D+V in 2019 and to have the support of an amazing team that shares a similar vision for my work.

What is the toughest part in switching the roles between being an editor in chief and a photographer? 

As a photographer, you have more control over your images, so it’s easier to have a consistent voice and point of view. As an editor, you have various contributors of different aesthetics, so the challenge is in the editing and commissioning to establish a common visual language.

Tell about the recent video projects you’ve worked on as perhaps a film for OYSHO with D+V Management or PH5 Spring. How is your approach to this media different from photography (from a technical perspective)? 

I always want to be growing and learning something new. Working in moving images has been very exciting as it’s all very fresh. Because I don’t know the ‘rules’ and have never formally studied it, I feel like there’s a different sense of freedom to experiment in this new medium.

What’s next?

I can’t share the details yet, but I’m working on a personal project that I’m very passionate about. The plan is to have a gallery show and to publish a book of the work at some point this year. It’s a new territory that I’m not familiar with, but I’m thrilled to learn.