Sometimes It’s Good To Be Naive

Featuring Matthieu Delbreuve Words by Nastasia Khmelnitski

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Matthieu Delbreuve has recently released his first book Persona non Grata, a collection of photos, which come to unite the human and their environment, “an odyssey in an imaginary and vague world.” The connection is created through a visual trip and a story untold. We immerse in the partial experience of the moment and brief impressions.

In his body of work, Matthieu focuses on fashion, film photography, the technicality of setting light on set, while one of his main passions is investing time to work in the darkroom. His portraits are extremely expressive of the character's mood going beyond reality to the envisioned world. Matthieu works with celebrities and proposes a thoughtful product, while fashion shoots tend to offer a more bizarre statement.

Matthieu Delbreuve, a Paris-based fashion photographer, strives to create a unique merge of fashion with documentary worlds. He explains to us the way he got into photography from studying graphic design. We discuss his full-time job as a light manager and technical aspects of the job. Matthieu shares with us some insights into his latest photoshoot in Dubai and inspirations for future projects.

‘Paris is a small village. But I think it’s the same in London, Milan, or New-York’

Paris

What’s special or different in the Parisian creative scene? 

I don’t have a special relationship with the other photographers in Paris. I just know there are a lot of us and some of them are very good. We often have the same team (makeup, stylist, hair stylist). 

What does it mean to you to be a Parisian or a Parisian-based photographer?  

Paris is a small village. But I think it’s the same in London, Milan, or New-York. I’m not very attached to this Parisian scene.

‘At times it’s good to be naive and only do what you please instead of looking at the work of others’

Studies

You studied for the past 7 years several spheres as graphic design, beaux-art, etc. How does new knowledge affect your approach to photography and the end result? 

I didn't study photography, but painting and illustration are a good inspiration for me. Studying graphic design helped me a lot to do editing and have the technical knowledge for the magazine's specs.

I look at a lot of images in books and magazines, sometimes it helps me, but sometimes I tell myself that it doesn’t do me any good, in a sense that at times it’s good to be naive and only do what you please instead of looking at the work of others. 

‘When I have time, I choose to pass it in the darkroom and work on handprinting, prepare ideas for the next shoot, plan meetings with stylists, and of course, the shooting. I’m working 7 days a week’

Routine

Describe your regular week. How do mornings usually start? 

During the week, I have another job. I’m a Light manager at a photo studio in Paris. Usually, I wake up at 6:30 am to be at work at 8:30 am, sometimes even earlier, depending on the production of the day. My job is to do an estimate of the rental light and other stuff as preparing, test the light if it’s working for the team, sometimes painting the cyc wall, fix problems, manage the studio assistant, and do the accounts. Sometimes, I finish very late. 

What are your main highlights during the working week?

When I have time, I choose to pass it in the darkroom and work on handprinting, prepare ideas for the next shoot, plan meetings with stylists, and of course, the shooting. I’m working 7 days a week.

Fashion Shoots

One of the recent fashion stories published features Caroline de Maigret. How was it like to work with Caroline?   

Working with Caroline was amazing, honestly, it was a kid's dream to work with her. I’m a shy guy, and I was very impressed by her and her professional background. I’m used to working with celebrities, but with her, it was different. The shooting was fast, very nice and with good energy. She is a very professional person.

‘I like to work on a story merging fashion and documentary or abstract images’

Stylistics

It’s all in the details. Details in your work oftentimes include an element which exaggerates, adds a certain bizarre touch, which may come from the angle you decide to take, from the emotion expressed or a fashion accessory chosen. What type of stories do you love to work on the most? 

I like to work on a story merging fashion and documentary or abstract images. Sometimes, I shoot a documentary 2 or 3 weeks after the main photoshoot to create a new sense (with textures and light). Other times, I create mood boards from documentary pictures for fashion stories. 

Which topic you always wanted to shoot but didn’t have a chance yet? 

I recently worked on a photoshoot in the desert of Dubai. The desert is calm and is very special for me, but my goal is to do a fashion story in Cairo, Egypt, and continue it with a documentary.

‘The easiest for me on set is the technical stuff, which I know the best. I know my lights. Also, I never worry about the time I have for the shooting, I work fast, and only with analog’ 

Fashion

Your main focus is fashion photography spiced with irony, humor, and surprise. What’s the hardest and most challenging aspect you can face on set, and what’s the easiest one for you? 

I think the most difficult part for me is to keep the intention of the model and the rest of the team on a high level. I’m a shy guy, and sometimes it’s difficult to be assertive. I need people to understand and follow me and to reassure me. 

On the other hand, the easiest for me on set is the technical stuff, which I know the best. I know my lights. Also, I never worry about the time I have for the shooting, I work fast, and only with analog.

Upcoming Projects

What are your plans for this year? 

I just released my first book (in late April), Persona non Grata, an odyssey to an imaginary and vague world. A melting pot of pictures I took during the last 5 years. This year turns to an uncertain future with the virus.

What are you working on right now? 

I think, for the moment, it will be difficult to work as we did before the lockdown, but I hope I will continue to work on my personal projects, travel, and of course, do some editorials and commercial shoots.