A Real Man Should Be A Feminist
Alex Huanfa Cheng is a photographer and artist currently based in Paris with his wife Zhiyu and his son. His interest extends beyond classic fashion shoots leading him to explore cultures, involving non-professional models in his shoots, and focusing on ‘real’ beauty. One of the main revelations in his career came from the series Zhiyu, in which Alex portrayed his wife and her intimate journey before, during, and after pregnancy.
This mutual experience allowed him to change his aesthetics in photography and shape the new narrative, which eventually was interpreted to fashion shootings. Constantly questioning the difference between the male and female gaze in photography, Alex believes that getting closer to understand and portray women through a feminist viewpoint is imperative to capture women’s experience and entity.
In this interview, I discuss with Alex his series Zhiyu, which became the turning point in his professional and personal experiences. We speak about the desire to understand the cultural background and the unique way of translating culture to fashion shoots. Alex shares his learnings from the recent works and decision to photograph what he’s most passionate about, “I had a long period of struggling. I had many model test shootings, doing cheesy stuff, earning some money, but I didn't feel passionate about it.” We also speak about the recent change in this family life with the birth of his son.
‘In the beginning, my way of taking photos was rather aggressive. I was constantly reflecting on whether this would be an exploitation of women's vulnerability. I started to change the narrative, especially after Zhiyu became pregnant’
I Am
Hi Alex, we’re so glad to have you in our magazine! Thank you for the chance to speak with you. I would like to start with your quote from FotoRoom, which I found fascinating. When depicting your project of photographing Zhiyu, your partner in life, you said, “Although I’m a male, I try to photograph Zhiyu’s face and body like a feminist.” Could you please elaborate on the difference, as you perceive it, between the male and female gaze in photography, as I think you’re the first who acknowledges to try and implement the gaze of the ‘other?’
Thank you for your appreciation. We have this stereotype that men usually restrain their emotions and women are not stingy to express their feelings. And there has been a history of consumption of female beauty, which led to perceive the male gaze in a negative light. I think a good work — whether it’s made by male or female — should be full of humanity. A straight male artist with strong empathy should consider the questions that might arise from the women's side. Men and women should not see feminism differently. A real man should be a feminist.
The series of photographs of my wife shows my own growth and the progress of understanding the language of images. In the beginning, my way of taking photos was rather aggressive. I was constantly reflecting on whether this would be an exploitation of women's vulnerability. I started to change the narrative, especially after Zhiyu became pregnant, and I wanted to tell the story from the woman's perspective. We selected photos together. Now I'm also putting myself in the picture, and Zhiyu and I are really becoming one, telling the story of a family, so I might need to rename this series. But men and women are physically different after all, and it is still hard for men to fully understand women's feelings, and I am constantly learning about women.
‘The change from a mono-ethnic closed life circle to a multicultural country, in which I have become a minority, has had a very big impact on me. Being far away from my familiar cultural circle forced me to develop a new gaze on my own origins and culture.’
Hubei
You were born in the province of Hubei, China, later on moving to Paris to receive the MFA from L’école Nationale supérieur des beaux-arts de Paris, where you’re currently located. How did this experience of living in different countries and exploring different cultures changed you as a person or a photographer?
I currently live in Paris. The change from a mono-ethnic closed life circle to a multicultural country, in which I have become a minority, has had a very big impact on me. Being far away from my familiar cultural circle forced me to develop a new gaze on my own origins and culture. I grew up in rural Hubei. When I was studying and working in metropolitan China, I had always tried to get rid of my past identity. But, now I am grateful that my living experience, as part of the lower class, granted me a more unique gaze on the world. It enabled me to pay more attention to the living conditions and to portray the underclass in China and other countries.
‘One day a person in the fashion industry asked me to do a shooting with my girlfriend because she loved my series Zhiyu. Then I realized that it was not necessary to shoot professional fashion models.’
Fashion Projects
What is striking is that your fashion photography, in its aesthetics, is very close to the various projects outside the world of fashion you have. The powerful connection to cultural backgrounds of people, the curiosity about roots, the strong color palette that is present - can be seen in both types of photography. I would argue that not many photographers are successful in extending their vision and implementing their aesthetics from personal projects to fashion. What is that you’re most interested in - in terms of cultures you’ve encountered?
I had a long period of struggling. I had many model test shootings, doing cheesy stuff, earning some money, but I didn't feel passionate about it. One day a person in the fashion industry asked me to do a shooting with my girlfriend because she loved my series Zhiyu. Then I realized that it was not necessary to shoot professional fashion models, and that aesthetics in choosing people could be more equal. Many ordinary people could wear high fashion for editorial shootings. So, I tried to ask friends around me, or interesting people on the internet to take part in shooting fashion stories. Real family members, friendships, love have a magical chemistry reaction with fashion, which makes it much easier to shoot. And I don’t have to think hard about how to do an amazing visual to shock the audience.
Your Son
How did the birth of your son in 2019 change your and Zhiyu’s life? Do you plan to include him more in your photographic series?
Honestly, raising a child is a joy, but at the same time, it is an annoying full-time job. We have to sacrifice a lot of time to take care of him. He has made us both grow up a lot. It also made me at a disadvantage in my experience in terms of the social division of labor, which women experience.
This year the pandemic has slowed down our schedule a lot, and taking care of my child has given me a deeper experience being part of the family and in fatherhood, and has given me a lot of inspiration for fashion shootings. Our boy is taking up most of Zhiyu's energy, it's impossible to avoid photographing him when I photograph Zhiyu, and I’m also inserting myself into the series.
‘I didn't experience fame at a young age, and I don't have good business acumen. There are too many uncertainties in life, but the only thing I can say for sure is that as long as we keep doing what we love, we won't feel like we've wasted 20 years.’
Tips and Guidance
How would you encourage a young person whose desire is to pursue photography against what his parents expect them to choose? What tips could you give this person?
In China, children are generally much more influenced by their parents' expectations than in Europe. I am already grateful for the fact that I have come this far in my life. I didn't experience fame at a young age, and I don't have good business acumen. There are too many uncertainties in life, but the only thing I can say for sure is that as long as we keep doing what we love, we won't feel like we've wasted 20 years, whether we achieve what we expect or not after those 20 years. Enjoying what we are doing is very important.
Next Steps
What project are you working on or planning as the next one?
I am working on a portrait documentary project about Chinese immigrants in France. I also want to go back to China to photograph the people in Wuhan and my downtown, which is near Wuhan. But I have to wait until the Covid is completely gone.
